“Fleur de Lys”

Chocolate is my friend. I must however admit to being a chocolate snob. If it has more sugar than cocoa it is not chocolate. There are, of course, exceptions which prove the rule. White chocolate doesn’t really taste like chocolate and yet satisfies the same indulgent tendencies as a 66% cocoa Valrhona dark chocolate does. It is also particularly good combined with a cardamom infused milk to make a subtle, complex and rich mousse. But I digress…I am really here to tell you about the Fleur de Lys chocolate gateau from the chain of Paul bakeries which is slowly taking over central London. The gateau consists of four layers – a thin sponge base; a hidden, slightly thicker milk chocolate and praline feuilltine (a type of crunchy little flakes) layer; a think layer of dark chocolate truffle-mousse and a thin topping of cocoa which is then decorated with an icing sugar Fleur de lys which contrasts beautifully. Now as much as I believe in “feeding the eyes” the taste is paramount and on this count the gateau scores well. The dark chocolate layer is indulgent and suitable dense. Its bitterness is provided by the quality of chocolate used and the cocoa topping which contrasts with the sweetness of the feuilltine layer. Similarly the smoothness of the dark chocolate layer and the crunch of the feuilltine create a complex sensory experience in your mouth. The disappointing part of the gateau comes from the cake layer – tasteless and chewy, in a stale not pleasing way, it adds nothing to either the taste or texture and I suspect is only there to prevent the base of the gateau from sticking to its box and so becoming a horrible mess when you try to cut it. However bad cake cannot be excused because of cutting purposes – a dense brownie layer or just a disc of good quality dark chocolate would do the job just as well and probably add to the flavour and texture too. However this is not to suggest that I have not eaten my fair share of this gateau and look forward with pleasure to the next few days of its, diminishing, existence in the fridge.


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