Ispahan

Pierre Hermé has been called the Dior of patisserie. I am not one normally willing to endorse such hyperbole but on this occasion I think the praise is justified. I say this as someone who has just eaten three of Hermé’s perfect macarons with another three waiting for consumption tomorrow. And of course I had to start with his signature Ispahan macaron (at the top of the photograph). A combination of lychee and rose cream with a raspberry compote heart is not a paring of flavours which excites me on paper - it sounds too aromatic and cloyingly sweet. However in order not to invite comments along the line of “don’t knock it before you try it” I duly purchased one of these much celebrated macarons during my recent trip to Paris. And I must admit that on tasting it I was absolutely astounded by the flavour combinations and sublime textures. The range of tastes reaches from the subtle floral scent of the rose to the concentrated sweetness of the raspberry. Combined the flavour is reminiscent of Turkish delight although probably the most exquisite Turkish delight you would ever had tasted. As with all macarons it was sweet but unlike I had imagined the sweetness was in fact balanced, rather than unduly exaggerated, by the floral undertones of the rose and the aromatic flavour of the lychee. And of course the joy of good macarons is that their crunchy exterior also contributes to this balancing act. For the crisp shell provides an essential contrast to the often very thick filling. Unsurprisingly here again Hermé’s confection surpassed all expectations. The fragile shell gives way to that unique chewy interior that comes from baking powdered almonds with sugar, amongst other things, and then comes the velvety filling to complete the textural picture. As must now be evident I am completely enamoured with these sublime creations. I am willing to admit that for people who do not have a sweet tooth the Ispahan macaron could be overwhelming but I also think that these extraordinary confections are one food everyone should try at least once.